Showing posts with label sun and sand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sun and sand. Show all posts

Monday, June 1, 2009

Christopher

Go Westie: Part 3


Admittedly, our posting pace has been flagging recently. Unfortunately, your beloved today's blogspot crew has been engaged occupationally and otherwise of late. However, to bridge the blog gap, here are some excerpts from an unfinished, relatively unedited travel piece I started ages ago. It's about a trip around the outside of Hawaii's big island in a white Westfalia pop-top.

Here's the final installment to date. The rest is yet to be written.


WHITTINGTON RECREATIONAL PARK

What we found was a sort of revelation. Whittington Recreational Park is a tiny stretch of grass, lava rock, and giant banyen trees that the locals planted many sun-drenched years ago. Our companions consisted of a smattering of locals and a school bus full of idealistic, patchouli-rolled post-adolescent birdwatchers—the Audubon society, to their credit, was searching the nooks of Hawaii for good night parking as well. We pulled our white land yacht into a spot as far from anyone as we could find and set up camp with a speed that only those with mobile accommodation and boy scouts can match. Dinner was fried ahi fillets accompanied by a vaguely sweet seaweed salad, an overindulgent number of local beers, and the quiet sense of self-satisfaction that a secluded beach can bring.

Serenity’s moment ended in an explosion of cowbell and power chords. “Heartbreak, the soulshaker! I’ve been told about you!” The strains of Nazareth’s Hair of The Dog blew across our bow. Glancing around, we discovered the source: a beat-up old sedan that I was surprised to find parked only about twenty feet away. We exchanged furtive glances as a man with a seventies ‘stache and the most extraordinary white Einstein poof of hair stumbled in our direction. After we’d assured him that weren’t overly bothered at the concert in our ocean living room, and my girlfriend had endeared herself to him by requesting a set list that included Steve Miller Band, Whitesnake, and sundry other bands with more hair than talent, ‘Bernie’ officially introduced himself.

A joker and midnight toker for the ages, Bernie had a way of speaking that involved evocatively waving his hands—beer in left hand and the joint in right—in order to illustrate his points. Apparently, his family had emigrated from Germany when he was still in short pants, making Hawaii their new home. Pointing across the way, he explained that his uncle had planted the largest of the large trees that formed the Southern border of the park and that he’d been coming to Whittington for more than thirty years. When I asked him about the “Say No to Drugs” sticker that adorned his rear bumper, he explained that it didn’t refer to drugs of the earth, but rather the “ice” habit he’d kicked two years prior.
To be sure, we had our reservations at first. But a few eighties hair metal tracks and beers later, I think we all felt like we’d made a new friend. We even helped execute the latest strike in what we learned was an ongoing battle with the park rangers, using a tow chain and a crowbar to shift one of the concrete blocks placed to keep the locals from driving their cars to the far point to watch the stars.

It wasn’t until after we’d said our farewells to Bernie that I started to empathize with his determination. Hundreds of miles from the mainland, the stars in Hawaii are spectacular. Under the pinpricked sky, like wide-eyed children, the three of us exchanged gasps as we lay on the grass pointing out constellations and keeping watch for shooting stars. Who could blame Bernie if he wanted a little private time with the heavens?

Overhung and blinking the sleep from my eyes the following morning, I sat up with a start. In the distance, I could hear the sounds of large motor. I slid one of Whitey’s curtains aside to see a fleet of large Parks and Rec trucks pulling into the lot. They headed right for the concrete block we’d moved the night before, surveyed it, and went to work towing it back into place. In the distance, across the park, I could see Bernie eyeing the destruction of his handiwork through a pair of binoculars and laughing.

Sunday, May 31, 2009

Christopher

Go Westie: Part 2



Admittedly, our posting pace has been flagging recently. Unfortunately, your beloved today's blogspot crew has been engaged occupationally and otherwise of late. However, to bridge the blog gap, here are some excerpts from an unfinished, relatively unedited travel piece I started ages ago. It's about a trip around the outside of Hawaii's big island in a white Westfalia pop-top.

Continuing from where we left off, your intrepid explorers pick up their ride...


"WHITEY"

After catching the Hele-On, a free shuttle bus ($1 per piece of luggage) that travels from the Western Kona side of the big island to Hilo Town in the East, we picked up our transportation in depot parking lot. There we met Gary Berg, proprietor of GB adventures, his wife, and blonde, surfer-haired son.

Gary is a man with an entrepreneurial plan. Gary is part of that neo-hippy, post-boomer generation that manages to reconcile hippy ideals and a commercial sensibility with a clean moral slate. Gary deals in vans. He owns a fleet of four VW campers, which he strives hard to keep in perfect running condition. He offers 24 hour roadside service should anything go awry. The man knows his Westies. Once we`d finished the paperwork, he went step by step through each feature with us. He showed us how to spin the passenger seat around so we could eat our dinner round table style. He reminded us to switch off the propane in transit so as to avoid being found asphyxiated roadside. He demonstrated the delicate art of bringing in the canvas pop-top so as to avoid any damage yet make sure that nary a flap is showing. He handed us our VW instruction manual, Big Island map, and the keys to “Whitey,” and kindly wished us well on our way.

HILO TOWN

Hilo is by far the largest community on the Eastern side of the island with a population of 40,000 and its own Walmart. Kamehameha Avenue, the town’s main tourist strip, has a small town Americana feel to it. That morning, the residents were doing their shopping and mingling with a smattering of tourists at the local farmer’s market. The locals tended to focus on the local produce—mangos, papaya, Maui sweet onions, and the like—while the tourists picked their way through bags of Kona coffee, bouquets of indigenous flowers, and “Hawaiian Bikini Inspector” tank-tops.

PUNALU’U

Once we’d gassed up and purchased alcohol, ahi tuna fillets ($3.99 a pound!), and other assorted groceries, we steered our 1988 Volkswagen Westfalia South and headed for our first destination, Punalu’u Beach. Punalu’u is renowned for two things—it’s bizarre, black, lava-borne sand and the endangered sea turtles that lay their eggs there. When we pulled into the crowded lot, we saw Punalu’u’s third feature—the non-indigenous tour buses that congregate there. Dozens of tourists, mostly American and Japanese had just offloaded in the parking lot. As we strolled down the beach, my bare feet and I came to the realization that black sand, for all its novelty, is really not so much sand as it is tiny, jagged, lava rocks. The faint scent of volcanic ash wafting through our nostrils, we made our way down to the beach to where the sea turtles were supposed to be.

There they were: two vaguely annoyed-looking hawksbill sea turtles sitting in the middle of a barren patch of black sand, mostly ignorant of the small circle of tourists that were alternately gawking or snapping photos of their beady-eyed visages. One thing that one discovers quickly about Hawaii is that it’s not particularly shy or subtle about its natural beauty. Hawaii’s natural wonders aren’t squirreled away under rocks, but rather on full, out in the open, explicit display at nearly all times. Dolphins swim along the coastline. Giant palms and ferns dot the roadside. One need only dip a snorkelled head into the water to spot yellow tang and angel fish darting behind finger coral.



We left the hawksbills to their 15 minutes of fame and made for the opposite end of the beach to survey the campsites. It was a sad lot. The few tents that were up were being buffeted about by the wind and were mere footsteps from the public bathroom and picnic area, on one side, and the crowded parking lot, on the other. We decided camping next to buses and Buicks was for dudes in pickups and the birds, and drove north along the coast in search of something a little more private.

To be continued...

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Christopher

Go Westie: Part 1



Admittedly, our posting pace has been flagging recently. Unfortunately, your beloved today's blogspot crew has been engaged occupationally and otherwise of late. However, to bridge the blog gap, here are some excerpts from an unfinished, relatively unedited travel piece I started ages ago. It's about a trip around the outside of Hawaii's big island in a white Westfalia pop-top.

Mahalo.


HILO, HAWAII— I had seen the travel commercials and heard the tales from resort-friendly acquaintances. I had expectations of Hawaii.

I expected to see acres of sunburned flesh. I thought I’d swim in kidney-shaped pools under false waterfalls, frolicking in adults-only grottoes with either overfriendly or overly uncomfortable strangers. I was ready to snorkel in false lagoons ringed by false beaches and filled with multitudinous varieties of tropical fish, eels, and sea turtles. With a little web research, I learned that I had two in-resort transportation options other than my trusty flip-flops. I could make use of the resort’s track-constrained fleet of Swiss-made river boats. Or I could take the monorail. That’s right, the monorail. I knew that my hotel lobby would contain not one, but two sad-looking but well-trained show parrots, which would perform on command, but otherwise largely ignore the almost constant harassment from newly-arrived guests. I knew that Day-glo sunglasses, thong bikinis, Swe-Thai massage, fourteen dollar Ahi burgers with taro chips, luaus, an army of professional smiles, silk shirts, and all too many leis were in the offing.

I expected and took part in all of the above during my three odd days spent at this empire on the edge, this gated community of septuagenarian bliss on the coast, the Waikoloa Hilton.

And then I broke free.

After three days of pre-ordained pleasure and passivity, Me and my two travelling companions were prepared to take on Hawaii`s big island the way it was meant to be done— in a Volkswagen Camper van.



Our plan was simple. We aimed to circumnavigate the isle in five days, hit most of the major sights, and end up back in Hilo in time to lose the van and catch our flight home. The circumnavigation is no epic feat. In fact, the whole circuit can be completed in less than a day of straight driving, but that wouldn’t have fit with the Hawaiian ethos of our mission. We wanted to take our time, to take it easy. In the parlance of the local surf scene, to hang loose. We booked most of our camping permits ahead of time, mostly out of fear of having to beat out the hordes of holidaymakers that populated the Hawaii of my pre-trip imagination. We carefully plotted each site to minimize travel time, but at about $20 per permit, and with a bed on wheels, we weren`t too bothered.

To be continued...